Nothing quite like trying to fit together two things that were never meant to go together!
I mean, I know it CAN be done, I’m just not sure how…
I spent some time in the garage today trying to get my Hybrid Truck diesel engine and manual transmission to fit together. I already loaded both onto furniture dollies so I could roll them around the garage. Next, I had to shim the transmission up to match the height of the engine as best I could. I had taken a number of measurements; the thickness of the flywheel, how far the transmission shaft extended past the bell-housing, etc. etc.
But for me, nothing beats just eye-balling it! Once both halves of my driveline were leveled, I simply pushed them together. Peeking through the hole where the clutch cable would run, I could see that the transmission shaft just barely extended into the hole in the middle of the crankshaft, where I will eventually need to add a bearing or bushing.
That means that as-is, the space from the engine to transmission is ALREADY too far. I need to take something out to fit. Fortunately, already on the engine is a spacer ring. I may be able to mill it down, or better yet, make a NEW one. The new one would be THINNER, for the transmission shaft to extend into the crankshaft. It would also cover up the old starter position on the transmission bell housing and be the starter mounting point on the engine side. Exactly HOW thin or thick this plate needs to be, I still have to figure out.
In other news, I just figured out that my clutch and clutch cover do NOT work together!!! A while back, I purchased the two (from two different sources, I think) with the idea that I would get a clutch that matches the diameter of the flywheel and the inside splines of the transmission shaft, which it does. However, it wasn’t until today when I was test-fitting everything together that I realized the rivets on the clutch exactly do NOT clear the gripping surface of the clutch cover!
It’s actually close enough that I hope I can just zing off a little of the clutch cover in a lathe. If I can’t do that, it’s back to spending good money on ordering a different clutch cover from somewhere else!
So, looks like it’s time to figure out some ACCURATE measuring so that I know how thick to make the adapter plate and how to place the holes in it, keeping the centers correctly centered!
I also got the first officially DONATED item to the project, a fuel pump. This pump is NEW, pulled off of a new diesel generator that was getting an upgraded “Extreme Cold Weather Pump” mounted in its place. The pump is 12V DC. I tested it with a 12V battery and a bucket of water. Works great! Now all I need is a small fuel tank with a vented cap. I’m planning on removing the truck’s oversized fuel tank and installing a battery box where it is. With a compact diesel tank in the bed, it frees up space under the bed for the electric motor, batteries, and other components.
It looks like something as simple as a 4.5 gallon generator surplus tank would work fine. I’m planning to borrow an engine stand. Once I do, I should b e able to start learning a little more about the engine, figure how to run the throttle, fuel, and air, and get it to run on a stand.
-Ben
{ 1 trackback }
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
The 240D is available with a standard trans, the 300D probably uses the same one. It would probably be far simpler to use the MB trans, or if you really want overdrive, use the MB bellhousing and use a simple flat adapter plate between the bellhousing and the T5 (?) from the truck. The clutch, and fork from MB will probably drop-in, then just use a clutch disk to fit the trans you are using. It’ll make mounting the starter super easy as well. Take a look at how a modern T5 is being transplanted into early mustangs and look at the adapter plate.
Ben, any reason you didn’t just use a 300 TD with a matching standard transmission? I siund a set on Craigslist after getting inspired when viewing your video last night. Thoughts?